Onyx Pave

Onyx Pave

From Oaxaca to San Cristobal de las Casas and Palenque, and more: a driving tour

Alvin Starkman MA, LL.B.

Introduction

2,000 km journey by car responds to the needs of vacationers to Oaxaca, also wanting to enjoy the sights in central Chiapas, as well as those who want to at least consider the visits to the stations Pacific coast in Oaxaca and the Gulf beaches and cultural attractions in the state of Veracruz ... all without excluding a trip to Puebla. The circuit south-central Mexico provides travelers with a leisurely and culturally diverse segment of driving in the context of two or three weeks off, with virtually no backtracking.Â

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For this particular trip, our first day we Oaxaca to Tuxtla Gutià © rrez, then Chiapa de Corzo. After visiting the impressive viewpoints in the National Park Caà ± à ³ n Sumidero the next morning, we took to San Cristobal de las Casas, where we spent two days in the city and visit villages. nearby the following morning we went to Agua Azul, Palenque and then, turn the collapse of the morning. After that afternoon we continued through Tabasco, Veracruz, then, spending our final night in Orizaba. our stay ended with a return to Oaxaca, through Puebla. As a result of personal time constraints of the trip lasted only six days. could have been extended by a week or more, having many additional attractions and cities. Accordingly, although we have seen many of the highlights noted in the guestbook, a thorough examination of everything that is available is highly recommended especially those with time to spare.

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For most of the unity of the roads were excellent. We passed through 14 booths toll-nine military checkpoints in the last one had been arrested, interrogated and forced to pop the trunk, only once.   We experience without But a disturbing incident involving the state police, in Acayucan, Veracruz, said a Addendum. is convinced us to deviate from otherwise our firm rule against driving at night. Â

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Unlike Oaxaca, Chiapas there are no signs to encourage drivers the use of paved, wide, right hand shoulder, warning that physical abuse of women met with jail time, warned that the fine for throwing garbage is ninety times the (daily) wages, and along many sections of two lanes that are home to small signs pointing device where gasoline is the sale (of heads of families, sometimes in plastic containers 10 or 20 liters in the front and notification). Â In addition, one finds the checkpoints to regulate and monitor the transport of animals.

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From Oaxaca to San Cristobal de las Casas

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The drive from Oaxaca to San Crista ³ bal takes about 8.5 hours, but is best done in two segments, with one day to another, assuming you want to visit more a view en route.

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Leaving the drive Oaxaca Mitla, along Highway 190, are filled with gas, since there are long stretches of the road without seasons after turning off and head to the coast. you approach the exchange first after half an hour to proceed along lines essentially Take the 190th floor highway. cutting Tehuantepec / MATATLAN n.a After three miles of hills, will the "world capital of mezcal, "MATATLAN n, with production facilities and shops dotting the roadside for about three kilometers.  The smoke billowing from deep wells being prepared for baking agave, and to a lesser extent, the stills fed firewood.Â

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For the next hour and a half is climbing, leaning sometimes considerable, and then descend to the fertile valleys along the curvy, well-paved but sometimes the repaired road. If there was gas filling before, make it past the military checkpoint in the first place, an hour's drive in San Pedro Totalapan.

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He predominant vegetation is growing agave --- occasionally on steeper slopes and mixed --- brush, cactus and palm trees are pole interspersed. Municipalities, with small shops, restaurants, pharmacies, garages, and even a guest house in about two hour's play in San Josà © de Gracia. In near El Camara ³ n you find one again a few mills of mescal.

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The final descent towards the coast begins Nearly three hours into the drive, when you finally find along the linear acceleration aways. Once you arrive º Marila, you feel you are in the tropics, with signs offering fresh fish (bream) and cold coconut milk.Â

You'll also have the option of heading to the coast Huatulco, or bottom-Salina Cruz, Tehuantepec Tehuantepec ny. Â

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The new highway from Chiapas, along Highway 200, has an exchange that can potentially create a little confusion. At mile 240 of the trip, more or less, you will find a roundabout with signs that not help in terms of reaching its destination. Exit that includes the words Maria Romero, and then ask to make sure you have the right traffic highway. and pedestrian activity, at least early 2009, it'll be sparse. towards La Ventosa, so when you see a sign for your leadership, you know you are in the right road. In about four hours to their trip, about 270 kilometers from the unity of his day, you will pass through the cabin toll of La Ventosa, with clean bathrooms and a gas station near by. From this point until arrival at Tuxtla, you're home free.

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For the next 60 kilometers he drives through liquidation plan plains. There is a stretch of 15 kilometers with two groups of large white windmill, very unusual and impressive to the eye, the second set with power generation equipment is apparent. There is then a pair of temporary checkpoints along the sectors of the new pot, and then old and poorly hidden way in the process of being paved.

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His arrival in San Pedro Tapanatepec follow road along good through mango orchards, with a little ranching. The city has a gas station, Banamex, Etc. After passing through the checkpoint nearby military, once again, you will begin your ascent of the mountain, arriving in Chiapas in about six hours drive.Â

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The focus of Tuxtla is uneventful, marked by periods of continuous up and down, extending from the plains, and travel through a couple of small towns. Arriving you'll encounter a traffic circle, fairly easy navigate.Â're bound not to enter the city, but rather, will pass through a number ofa overpasses in the course of about 20 minutes. He goes above and left of the town, then descends to a fork in the road leading to Chiapa Note Corzo. the cut - the compensation is not well marked, so when you see the option to turn right or left turn right.

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The two main attractions that can be found in Tuxtla, Chiapa de Corzo Or are the zoo and to the Caà ± Sumidero. Both are easily accessible through Chiapa de Corzo, but may require some backtracking. The advantage of staying in Chiapa de Corzo is that it's funny, you do not have to enter the city of Tuxtla Gutià © rrez, and makes for an easy morning for starting a boat trip from canyons. However, if you want to take the boat ride rather than drive through National Park, you may have to wait an hour or two in the morning until there are enough tourists to fill one of the many ships waiting. It all depends on the time of year in terms of level of tourism.  We arrived at the docks soon after the opening 8 a.m., just told that we might have to wait at least one hour. Therefore, a jump back in the car and went to the lookouts in the National Park Sumidero. Caà ± on the site via boat or car, do not be missed.Â

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The road from Tuxtla to San Cristobal de las Casas is perhaps the stretch of road of better quality and more enjoyable to browse throughout the journey. Unfortunately, the unit only takes about 35 minutes. starts immediately after passing through the toll gate when leaving Almost all Corzo. Chiapa de the unit is easy curves. climb you descend to San Crista ³ bal in the last five minutes of brief ride. "Must" visit, while in the San Crista ³ bal, preferably with a guide though you will have your own vehicle, are Chamula and Zinacantan n.a

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San Crista ³ bal Palenque

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Although it Throughout the basically good, two-lane highways that go down to San Crista ³ bal Palenque there are several houses and shops, which offer gasoline for sale, and Ocosingo you find gas stations, it is better to fill the left San Crista ³ bal.  Do not worry about your departure time because, with stops along the way that you probably will be too late to take the tour of the ruins, and in any case, it is best to visit during the morning before the afternoon sun and heat from enjoying his visit to the maximum. Without stops, the trip takes around 4.5 hours in the course of 200 miles.

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About 11 kilometers in the unit you find a cut on the left on Highway 186 to Ocosingo. Here, although there is no sign of Palenque or Water Azul. Despite several climbs gradually descends into the hot jungle environment characterizing Palenque, in marked contrast to the relatively cool climate of San Crista ³ bal just left

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You will pass through pine forests and mills, farms, quaint roadside restaurants and stalls offering the He goes to local production for some 65 kilometers into the day unit, a "Dona't miss" stop is one of two or three colored dots amber, in an area where the ore is extracted and then worked in predominantly silver accent jewelery. If you're in the market for amber, wait until your arrival here. You probably have visited the Amber Museum in San Crista ³ bal, so that at the time has come to these workshops have learned to detect the real thing from glass and plastic imitations. These posts have really amber and to order the parts is shown in the rough, how to identify counterfeit and how raw amber was formed in fine jewelry.

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Ocosingo on the approach, which will also have the opportunity to stop at the craft outlets. and coffee during the decent you will find bromiliads grown used as garden borders impressive, and bring about change as the tropical varieties banana, coconut, sugar cane, and perhaps surprisingly, still some pers.

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Almost immediately, then begin to find more zigzag and the peaks and valleys, once again with a net decrease in a setting of lush green forest, with rivers, waterfalls and even a water park and ecotourism site. After the military checkpoint just over 100 miles on the unit, the decline is characterized by predominantly straight extractions close 40 kilometers, and come to court - left, Agua Azul, another "must" in trip. not be surprised to discover that you have to pay two tolls separately or fees. entry into the parking lot, was asked by a child if he / that can protect your Car We declined. Later we find that our antenna car was gone. Give the child 10 or 20 pesos, both here Palenque.Â

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The trip to Palenque Agua Azul takes about two hours. A few miles in the unit will go through a stretch of the posts on both sides of the road, selling hand-embroidered skirts, blouses, dresses and shirts. From here, to Palenque, the road descends, with easy curves and long straight aways, corn, sugar cane and bananas.

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Start early on your day at the park ruin. Doors open at 7:30 am, with tickets to the site is available for purchase in 8 am. You can get a guide while you wait to buy tickets.es suggest that you wait for a group of about eight people to make the most reasonable cost. You will be offered a fee per person based on eight or ten in the A group. In our case, the guide decided to take his fee per person for eight people, with only six of us, probably anticipating it would take a fair bit of time for the other two, and preferring to finish the tour before the hottest time of day ... anticipating maybe able to fit on another trip if we ended early enough. Â

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Orizaba Palenque or more stops in Veracruz,

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If you intend to spend the night in Cà ³ rdoba or Orizaba, you may want to consider leaving Palenque Early the next morning because of driving involved. Of course, if it intends to go to the city of Veracruz, another plan could be in order. between Orizaba Palenque and you'll find at least three cut - offs leading to Veracruz, and at one point will be only about 50 kilometers from the city.

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Choose carefully the various options for accommodation, if for no other reason than to reduce the likelihood of finding the problem facing us ... feel required, at dusk, to change our plan about where to sleep, and as a result of having no choice but to drive at night, not the optimal way to enjoy of any tour of Mexico.

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Leaving Palenque on Route 186 that you immediately encounter palm and sugar cane cultivation and cattle on both sides of a good two-lane road with curves flat and straight-aways. After 25 miles, immediately after passing their first checkpoint you will become left. During 2009, the road became a lane in each direction to one lane and a half, very common throughout southern Mexico; As noted above, this series of shoulder is perfectly legal to drive on, and in fact speed up traffic flow while preparing drivers to yield to the right. Apart from this building highways for the rest of the trip back to Oaxaca or Puebla, are excellent.Â

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Within an hour or so of the road will be solid four-lane minimum. toll roads will be basically for the rest of the journey. About 125 kilometers on the day trip, will have the option of staying in a grand hotel Hilton & Conference Center, easily visible from the road. Just before the complex will be a huge underpass where a gas station. About 25 miles later, on entering Villahermosa, take CA rdenas cut and follow road 180.Â'll be continuing along a road with banana plantations, coconut and sugar cane fields and tropical flowers. Consider family a brief stop in La Venta, a small town known for its Olmec ruin. But the site closes at 4 pm, so keep this in mind if you are interested in a visit to the site.Â

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After half an hour, the road curves again begin, and crops will be less obvious, now over grazing flocks.  If you pass through the flood plains and on a large suspension bridge. A Based on the recommendation of at least a book tour, We had planned to spend the night in Acayucan, Veracruz, but as noted above, they felt obliged to continue to Orizaba, at night (see Annex). To grace saving, at least in our minds, is something of a comfortable passage through four toll booths for the next 2.5 hours, between Acayucan and our final stop of the night, cutting Orizaba. -  offs are clearly marked and leave little room for error. From Acayucan, continue along the marked paths for one or more Puebla, Mexico City, Oaxaca, since it is well after Orizaba, which really does not go out for Oaxaca.Â

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For those interested in the flowers, plants, cacti and succulents, consider a stopover in Fort de Las Flores, perhaps as a shot - starting point for a shift to Vera Cruz Cà ³ rdoba is a reasonable option for the night near Fort de Las Flores, and many more options for hotels as well as sights. day, but also Orizaba has a number of interesting options worthy of consideration for a stop and a visit to the tourism office makes for a good start for a short and pleasant visit to the city before continue to Oaxaca. Â

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Oaxaca Orizaba

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The unity of the Oaxaca Orizaba / exchange of Puebla is highly picturesque, rising dramatically for all but the final minutes. The Nevado de Orizaba is It passes through areas particularly impressive. agave large, ornamental, used as property boundary lines.  Just follow the signs indicating Puebla / Mexico for about 30 to 40 minutes, until finally see the cut of Oaxaca - off, when you perform either of Puebla, or return to Oaxaca.Â

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The final stretch of his journey is about 2 ½ hours nonstop than to relax and gas up. However, there are few places worth to consider. Unless you want to spend time at Tehuacan, his first stop will be at the Onyx / marble village of San Antonio Texcala. Tehuacan Exit seconds (after the Tehuacan toll booth), on the road 125 that leads to Huajuapan. After 6 km you reach the village, with several factory shops where you can almost nothing in onyx and marble, which can be shaped --- tequila sets, plates, basins, lamps, tables, containers, boxes, unicorns, fish, tubes hash, and of course a number of religious ornaments with various imagery. prices are about half of what you will pay elsewhere.

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The following is the Museum of Water, water, or the museum, actually a misnomer since it is so well marked more. Take the next exit after his return to the toll road to Sangabriel and will also Chilac. signage for the museum. It will give you a tour (in Spanish) in the main building and the surroundings outside landscapes. You will learn how progress is being made to teach villagers in desolate regions where water is scarce and fertility soil is poor, to conserve and recycle water, use of compost, worm and other techniques to enrich the soil, and cultivate and commercialize products nutritious as amaranth.Â

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As for land use and attractions near Tehuacan will close surpassed white buildings where there are poultry and then by truck through the State of Puebla, near other states. There will be a couple of viewpoints demarcated as stops for the tourists to stop and appreciate and photograph the deep valleys and high mountaintops. long and well marked expansion of the bridges show the valleys and will spend more mountains. There will be a geological fault. several miles of breathtaking cactus. pole near Oaxaca will approach vendors on each side of the road selling brightly colored wooden miniature trucks.Â

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The last of the toll booths of several Huitzo. is about 15 to 20 minutes later you approach Oaxaca. few minutes after entering the city, is given two opportunities to turn left (one of the signs is difficult to interpret), but unless received specific instructions to get to your hotel or B & B, and I know he is in a north street, you'd better go straight, eventually entering a one way street, It will take you to the center of the downtown area and the zà ³ calo.Â

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Addendum

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We had planned to spend our last night in Acayucan, Veracruz, having taken note of three hotels, one of which aroused our interest because it seemed the only middle-of-the-road and  acceptable option, at least for us. Immediately after entering the city, around from 6:30 pm, they were stopped by two policemen in the state and asked to produce some kind of a sticker on which we knew nothing. A produced and licensed property without a request to so. The most belligerent of the officers, Taurino branches Santiago (Santiago) insisted that the phone call from a crane, and not take his cell phone and make a call.Â

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After ten minutes of heated banter, I told my wife I only ask "How much?" in Santiago, said he would not money. This was a shock, since my initial assumption was that it would only be a matter of how long and how much. He turned more irritable, almost as much as we had become.

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From nowhere, the mood suddenly changed Santiago. We asked on our plans for the night. we indicated that we intend to stay in immediate  town. mentioned his recommendation of hotels and how to get there. It was the same hotel where we planned stay. We assured him that indeed would be staying there, which told us that we must pay a fine of 1,000 pesos day. next Similarly, in a softer tone, he suggested, "but since I'ma nice guy, and have a good heart, if you like, instead you can pay something for me. "

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I took three fifty-a twenty dollars in my pocket and offered one hundred pesos. Santiago said: "I'll take them all."  170 pesos therefore lighter than we have in the car, listening to laughter from Santiago, to his companion, we and no one else in the busy street earshot.Â

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But I think we have the last word. Santiago is in no doubt that we would remain suggested in his hotel, and in fact we went in that direction with him and his partner will probably not watching. had called a crane, but the hotel, and warned I was coming by, and confirmed the commission amount for referral. Otherwise, it would probably have required a larger bribe. Of course not wanted to stay anywhere suggested. We are concerned that one day our belongings may be torn from the Char decided that it would be unwise to stay in Acayucan to all, as high-tailed out of Dodge, and drove another 2 hours, overnight, until the beds in the city of Orizaba.Â

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About the Author

Alvin Starkman received his Masters in Social Anthropology in 1978. After teaching for a few years he attended Osgoode Hall Law School in Toronto, thereafter embarking upon a career as a litigator until 2004. Alvin now resides in Oaxaca, where he writes, leads small group tours to the villages, markets, ruins and other sites, is a consultant to film production companies, and operates Casa Machaya Oaxaca Bed & Breakfast. ( http://www.oaxacadream.com ) .